Solar made simple
for NSW & ACT homes and businesses.

A typical grid-connect system has four core parts: solar panels, which generate DC electricity from sunlight; an inverter, which converts that DC power into usable AC power for your home and the grid; mounting and racking, which secures the panels to your roof to Australian wind-loading standards; and a metering/monitoring setup so you can track how much your system is actually producing day to day, usually via an app. Beyond those four, most installs also include isolators and safety switches required under Australian wiring standards, plus the cabling and switchboard work to connect everything safely. Many NSW and ACT homes add a battery for storage on top of this core setup, which introduces a few more components — a battery management system and, often, a dedicated charge controller. We handle the full design and installation of every part of this as a CEC-accredited installer, so you're not left coordinating separate trades.

kW (kilowatts) describes capacity — how much power your panels or inverter can produce or handle at a single moment, like a 6.6kW or 10kW system. kWh (kilowatt-hours) measures energy over time — production or usage accumulated across hours, days or a billing cycle, which is exactly what shows up on your power bill. To put a real number on it: a well-positioned system in the Canberra/South-East NSW region typically generates around 1,350 kWh per kW of installed capacity per year, so a 6.6kW system might produce roughly 8,900 kWh annually. Battery capacity is also measured in kWh — how much energy the battery can store — while a battery's inverter (or hybrid inverter) output is rated in kW, describing how much power it can deliver at once, such as during an evening peak or a blackout. Getting these two units straight makes it much easier to compare quotes and understand what you're actually being sold.

It depends on the condition and capacity of your existing switchboard and meter, which is exactly why we don't quote sight-unseen. Common upgrades include a switchboard or consumer mains upgrade to safely handle the new circuits, additional isolators and safety switches required under current wiring rules, and in some cases a smart meter upgrade so your retailer can correctly bill for solar export. Larger systems — generally above roughly 5–10kW, depending on your network's export limits — sometimes require a single-to-three-phase upgrade, which is a bigger job but not unusual on larger homes or acreage properties. Older properties with dated switchboards are the most likely to need extra electrical work, while a newer switchboard on a standard single-phase home often needs little beyond the standard isolators and safety switches. We assess all of this during your free site inspection, so any additional cost is in your quote upfront rather than showing up as a surprise on installation day.

Single phase supply uses one active wire to bring power into your home and is the standard setup for most suburban houses — it typically supports solar inverters up to somewhere around 5–10kW, with the exact ceiling set by your local network's export limits rather than a single fixed national number. Three phase supply uses three active wires instead of one, spreading the load more evenly, and is common on larger homes, rural and acreage properties, and most commercial buildings. The practical difference for solar is capacity: three phase lets you install a larger inverter and system without hitting single-phase export restrictions, which matters if your roof and budget could support more than a single-phase connection allows. If you're not sure which supply your property has, it's usually marked on your switchboard or meter, and it's one of the first things we check during a site inspection since it directly shapes what system size makes sense.

It genuinely depends on your energy usage pattern, your feed-in tariff, whether you're on a time-of-use plan, and how much you personally value backup power during an outage — there's no single answer that fits every household. The core trade-off is this: current published feed-in tariffs in our region sit around 5c/kWh in NSW (IPART) and 6c/kWh in the ACT (Evoenergy network), while retail tariffs are roughly 34c/kWh (NSW, AER Default Market Offer) and 37c/kWh (ACT, ICRC) — so every kWh you store and use yourself is worth several times more than the same kWh exported to the grid. For many NSW and ACT households, a battery meaningfully improves self-consumption on top of solar alone, and adds genuine blackout protection, but the payback period varies a lot with household usage timing and system size. Rather than quote a generic payback figure here, our team models the real numbers for your specific usage pattern and property as part of your free quote — see our battery storage guide for worked examples.

Most eligible solar systems in Australia qualify for Small-scale Technology Certificates (STCs) under the federal Small-scale Renewable Energy Scheme — this is the main reason a new system costs less upfront than its full sticker price. The number of certificates a system earns depends on its size, your postcode's solar zone rating, and how many years remain until the scheme's 2030 end date; your installer calculates this and deducts it directly from your quote, so you don't apply for it separately. To stay eligible, the installer must be CEC-accredited and the equipment must be on the Clean Energy Council's approved products list — both standard for any reputable installer. Battery incentive schemes have also been introduced federally and vary by state, with rules that change more often than the STC scheme's. Because rebate values and eligibility genuinely shift over time, we confirm exactly what applies to your address, system size and battery capacity when preparing your quote, rather than quoting a number that might be outdated. See our full rebates & STCs guide for more detail.

Warranty terms vary by manufacturer and product tier, so "what warranty do I get" really has three separate answers layered together. Panels commonly carry both a product warranty (covering manufacturing defects) and a separate, longer performance warranty (guaranteeing the panel still produces above a set percentage of its original output after many years) — these are often different lengths, so it's worth checking both, not just the headline number. Inverters typically carry a shorter manufacturer warranty than panels, reflecting that inverters are the component most likely to need servicing or replacement within a system's lifetime, though extended inverter warranties are often available for an additional cost. Batteries usually carry a capacity-based warranty, guaranteeing a minimum usable capacity remains after a certain number of charge cycles or years, since battery capacity naturally degrades with use. On top of all of that manufacturer cover, our own installation work is backed by a separate Island Solar workmanship warranty, so a wiring or installation issue isn't something you'd need to chase a manufacturer for. We'll walk you through the specific warranty documents for the exact products in your quote before you commit to anything.